The Breithorn’s summit ice cap from the air: a dome of snow ending in broken ice cliffs above a band of dark rock.

Breithorn, 4,164 m

Sheet 03 of 11Stage 2027

Range:: Pennine Alps
Coordinates:: 45.9411° N, 7.7472° E

Matterhorn Glacier ParadiseLift, 3,883 mZermattVillage, 1,608 mBreithorn4164

012km

The summit ice cap from the air, July 2022. Rope teams are on the crest. The dotted line is the normal route, schematic; huts and lifts are placed by hand.

The climb, to scale

Breithorn4,164 mSummit
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise3,883 mLift
Zermatt1,608 mVillage

How hard

The route’s grade: Easy glacier
For me: Glacier intro
Mountain days: 1
Biggest day: +350 m; 2–⁠3 h up, 1–⁠2 h down
Season: Jul–⁠Sep

Endurance
Altitude
Technical
Exposure

After the skills course. A quarter of Olympus day 1 in ascent, but at 4,000 m on a glacier. Needs the course and a guide, not more training. Easier after Olympus.

Alpine boots
Crampons
Ice axe
Harness & rope

Why it is in the plan

From the roadmap: 2027, alpine foundation.

First 4,000 m alpine summit.
First proper glacier experience.
Practice crampons, rope movement and altitude exposure.
Prepare for Mont Blanc.

What it adds

Technical ability
Altitude experience
Expedition experience
Endurance
Mountain judgment
Risk management