The snow-streaked rock pyramid of Island Peak above a stony moraine, with a smaller white peak to its right.

Island Peak, 6,189 m

Sheet 08 of 11Stage 2028

Range:: Mahalangur Himal
Coordinates:: 27.9208° N, 86.9352° E

High campOptional high camp, 5,600 mBase campNight, 5,087 mChhukungVillage, 4,730 mIsland Peak6189

012km

Island Peak, also called Imja Tse, in April. The dotted line is the normal route, schematic; camps move from year to year and are placed approximately.

The climb, to scale

Island Peak6,189 mSummit
High camp5,600 mOptional high camp
Base camp5,087 mNight
Chhukung4,730 mVillage

How hard

The route’s grade: Fixed-rope headwall
For me: High altitude
Mountain days: 2–⁠3; Inside a 19–⁠25 day trip
Biggest day: +1,100 m; 6–⁠8 h up, 3–⁠4 h down
Season: Apr–⁠May,Oct–⁠Nov

Endurance
Altitude
Technical
Exposure

After Mera. The summit day is Olympus day 1 in size, all above 5,000 m, and ends with a jumar headwall and an abseil, so rope work has to be automatic first. Easier after Mera Peak.

High-altitude boots
Crampons
Ice axe
Harness & rope
Helmet
Ascender
Tent

Why it is in the plan

From the roadmap: 2028, first 6,000 m. Milestone: Understand how the body performs between 5,500 and 6,500 m.

Fixed ropes.
Jumar use.
Rappelling.
Steeper snow and ice.
Technical movement at altitude.
Preparation for Himalayan expedition systems.

What it adds

Technical ability
Altitude experience
Expedition experience
Endurance
Mountain judgment
Risk management