The snow pyramid of Himlung Himal above a broken icefall, seen from base camp against a dark blue sky.

Himlung Himal, 7,126 m

Sheet 09 of 11Stage 2029

Range:: Peri Himal
Coordinates:: 28.7719° N, 84.4221° E

Camp 3Below the col, 6,350 mCamp 2Glacier plateau, 6,050 mCamp 1Ridge above the glacier, 5,450 mBase campNight, 4,850 mHimlung Himal7126

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The summit pyramid and icefall from base camp, in November. The dotted line is the normal route, schematic; camps move from year to year and are placed approximately.

The climb, to scale

Himlung Himal7,126 mSummit
Camp 36,350 mBelow the col
Camp 26,050 mGlacier plateau
Camp 15,450 mRidge above the glacier
Base camp4,850 mNight

How hard

The route’s grade: Glacier, fixed ropes
For me: Expedition
Mountain days: 15–⁠17; Inside a 31–⁠34 day expedition
Biggest day: +780 m; 8–⁠10 h up, 4–⁠5 h down
Season: Oct–⁠Nov

Endurance
Altitude
Technical
Exposure

After Mera Peak and the Alps the climbing is within reach: PD with fixed ropes. The unknown is a week of rotations above 6,000 m and a ten-hour summit day to 7,126 m. Easier after Mera Peak or Lobuche East.

High-altitude boots
Crampons
Ice axe
Harness & rope
Ascender
Helmet
Tent

Why it is in the plan

From the roadmap: 2029, first 7,000 m. Milestone: Prove readiness for an 8,000 m expedition.

First 7,000 m summit attempt.
High-altitude expedition experience.
Multiple high camps.
Extended exposure above 6,000 m.
Test recovery, sleep, appetite and decision-making at extreme altitude.
Learn expedition logistics and camp routines.

What it adds

Technical ability
Altitude experience
Expedition experience
Endurance
Mountain judgment
Risk management