Baruntse’s snow and rock massif above the frozen lakes of the upper Hongu, seen from a snow ridge at the Amphu Labtsa.

Baruntse, 7,129 m

Sheet 10 of 11Stage 2029

Range:: Mahalangur Himal
Coordinates:: 27.8716° N, 86.9802° E

Camp 2Barun plateau, 6,400 mCamp 1West Col, 6,135 mBase campUpper Hongu, 5,350 mBaruntse7129

012km

From the Amphu Labtsa in October, with the upper Hongu lakes below. The dotted line is the normal route, schematic; camps move from year to year and are placed approximately.

The climb, to scale

Baruntse7,129 mSummit
Camp 26,400 mBarun plateau
Camp 16,135 mWest Col
Base camp5,350 mUpper Hongu

How hard

The route’s grade: Exposed snow ridge
For me: Expedition
Mountain days: 9–⁠12; Inside a 32–⁠35 day expedition
Biggest day: +730 m; 7–⁠10 h up
Season: Oct–⁠Nov

Endurance
Altitude
Technical
Exposure

Only after Himlung-class altitude and a season of steeper ice and ridges. Since 2015 about one member in five above base camp has summited. Easier after Mera Peak or Lobuche East.

High-altitude boots
Crampons
Ice axe
Harness & rope
Ascender
Helmet
Tent

Why it is in the plan

From the roadmap: 2029, first 7,000 m. Milestone: Prove readiness for an 8,000 m expedition.

A more technical alternative to Himlung Himal.
Fixed ropes and glacier travel.
Steeper ice.
An exposed summit ridge.
More demanding technical movement above 6,500 m.

What it adds

Technical ability
Altitude experience
Expedition experience
Endurance
Mountain judgment
Risk management